In a fourth floor New York walk-up apartment, the debut of the day's clothing inevitably finds its audience in one's neighbors, met by happenstance on ground floor, the penthouse, and glancingly down the hall.
Here, look by look, are fall's most coveted items caught in the winding flights.
INA Soho, from top: Halston black fur shirt, vintage leopard hat, Nicholas Kirkwood black suede pumps with white swirled platform; Junya Watanabe black dress with exposed zippers and Perrin black leather glove clutch; Chanel tweed and iridescent sneakers, Armani navy tutu, Issey Miyake patent planetary purse; Dolce & Gabbana navy tuxedo pantsuit with black satin trim; Junya Watanabe red down puffer jacket; Givenchy black fringed purse with woven strap, Comme Des Garcons wool, plaid one-armed jumper with pleated skirt.
Plaid, originally called tartan, was first made in woven wool and thrown over the shoulder in the high plains. Two threads woven underneath two opposing threads at right angles: this weave was once banned in the middle of the nineteenth century as the regional dress of Gaelic warrior clans. Towards 1800, the pattern was no longer associated with the Highlands. More pleasurable than dressing up, is dressing down, now that plaid is co-opted only into symbolic association with Scotland, in the crisp men's shirt, slacks and hoodie.
All merchandise, Union Square: Black Fleece navy, white, and grey plaid shirt, John Varvatos taupe leather jacket, Koto navy and camofluage pants, Pierre Hardy white boots; Junya Watanabe plaid hoodie, denim Levis jacket, 45 RPM wool navy billed hat, Chimala cream denim jean, Golden Goose cream and blue sneaker; GXT Grilliperlatesta Italian wool grey plaid suit, Dolce & Gabbana white shirt; Paul Smith white button-up, Giuseppe Zanotti blush snake skin t-strap pump.
Taking a cue from Honoré de Balzac, this found quote guides the INA Men's wardrobe this week: "The boor covers himself, the rich man or the fool adorns himself, and the elegant man gets dressed." Two who get dressed elegantly, in the first fall of the season merchandise, walk the Soho sidewalks below. Ties are featured woven inside of jackets, like scarves. Losing its timeworn stiffness, the tie even accessorizes windbreaker pants and hiking boots.
From above, all INA Men: Jil Sander hooded midnight polyester jacket, Gucci silver satin embroidered tie, vintage silver windbreaker pants, Kovalum blue & white checkered shirt, INA black cashmere beanie, Lanvin black leather hiking boot with fluorescent laces; Gucci suede jacket with white trim, Raf Simons black cotton button-down with attached scarf, grey denim Nicolas Andreas jeans, black Agnes B. hat, Tom Ford black & white satin tie; Stone Island black polyester bomber, Rag & Bone khaki pants, Givenchy grey, wool plaid shirt, Pierre Hardy grey suede sneakers, J. Lindeberg black & white tie; Vintage velour jacket with embroidered tigers; Margiela silver boots.
Another day, another choice - each day's mood determines each piece of clothing, or is it the other way around, each piece of clothing determining the course of the day?
Calling collect in grey: Jordan wears a Rick Owens heather t-shirt, over top of which are other hues of grey - a vest by Yohan Serfaty, and a Rick Owens charcoal motorcycle jacket.
On the run in Comme des Garcons, wearing his heart on his sleeve so to speak, or at least on his t-shirt, Jordan wears an MCM lime green studded backpack with Wings and Horns black suede shoes. The jeans, Dior.
Around the bend, the Dior jeans get a second look, this time with a Balenciaga black leather jacket and Tom Ford pebbled day bag. The shoes, model's own: Damir Doma.
At the end of it all, the day concludes in a Reiss black & grey tweed jacket, Black Fleece tie, Dolce & Gabbana wool pants, and John Lobb brown leather shoes with monk strap.
All men's merchandise found in INA Chelsea, from top:
Look 1: Yohan Serfaty brown leather vest, Rick Owens grey, leather motorcycle jacket, Rick Owens heather grey t-shirt, Christian Dior grey jeans, and Margiela black leather tote.
Look 2: Comme des Garcons white t-shirt with green heart, Dior grey jeans, Wings and Horns black suede shoes, and MCM lime studded backpack.
Look 3: Balenciaga black leather jacket with exposed seam, Helmut Lang grey distressed jeans, and Tom Ford black pebbled leather bag with gold zipper.
Look 4: Reiss tweed gray and black jacket with leather trim, Black Fleece cream and black wool tie, Dolce & Gabbana charcoal wool pants, John Lobb monk strap brown leather shoes.
INA Nolita has an array of nighttime looks and executive pieces, not least of which are deep-hued vintage dresses and skirts.
Leah models a Giuseppe Zanotti sparkle, peep-toe pump with a vintage Herve Leger bondage dress.
Moving into fall, over one shoulder rests a black leather quilted Chanel jacket: an afterthought or staple to any outfit, much like stingray purses.
This season, look for any excuse to resuscitate an old classic: the Manolo Blahnik studded t-strap heel. It is glitzy and youthful, dainty even - a good pair with cuffed denim or this Alaia black wool skirt and tuxedo blouse.
Enough room to hold a phone, select cards, and lipstick, the clutch is a significant buy, without which, evenings would be lost to shuffling through oversized bags. See above: an iridescent skin fold-over by Hayward and below, a Chanel half-moon black leather quilted clutch with attached golden Cs.
All merchandise featured from INA Nolita: vintage red Herve Leger v-neck bondage dress, Giuseppe Zanotti sparkle charcoal peep-toe pump, Chanel black, leather quilted jacket; Alaia fuschia three-quarters dress, Elena Ghisellini calf leather bag with stingray center, Charlotte Olympia black leather pumps with studded gold; Alaia black wool skirt, black Kiki de Montparnasse tuxedo blouse, Manolo Blahnik black leather t-strap pumps with silver studs; J. Mendel silver satin strapless dress, Brian Atwood pink & orange snake, suede strappy pumps, Hayward metallic skin clutch; Chanel red tweed skirt with matching jacket and gold buttons, D & G black lace bustier, Brian Atwood gold patent pumps, Chanel black leather clutch with gold details.
The artillery belt is a fad, while quickly out of style, that returns with panache in some version or another season in, season out. I sold my own artillery belt years ago. It was too harsh, heavy and militaristic, but I turned to the racks to discover its latest resurgence. Below are many belts by Balmain, a designer every season slinging the belt on low hip or high. To be found in INA Noho are a slew of wrestling belts endowed with metal, a method of cinching fallen fabric away from a high waist.
Ina Noho: Dolce & Gabbana lace sheer skirt with Balmain white wrestling belt; Vintage belt with gold drop-link chain; Balmain black metal wrestling belt; Yves Saint Laurent black and green polka dotted suit with Balmain quadruple-buckle and lace-up belt; Ralph Lauren brown suede lace camisole with Balmain quadruple buckle safety pin belt.