Flipping through the latest Harper's Bazaar, I asked my coworker, Jill Weinstein, who her fashion icons were, which shoots did she like? Not a fan of the girlier items with ruffles, Jill gravitated towards the longer pants and mod blazers worn by a model in deserted LAX airport.
I had Jill try this Hakaan ballerina dress on for me, though not at all her style -
"A plunging neckline!" Jill reached for the sheer, plaited Prada dress in the window, holding it up.
And a rounded toe Christian Louboutin pump. It fits, even with trousers, and as Jill mentioned, some of her favorite women wore trousers - Katherine Hepburn, Lauren Bacall.
"Powerful," said Jill, "that's what I like about the model in the airport." Though floral prints and pastels are still possible, as well as feminine silks...
...as well as gunmetal and translucent beads.
Standing with suitcases in hand, the Harper's model stood in a final outfit of contrasting textures and patterns that somehow came together as confluent, and looked like the most wanted woman: a woman not dressed by anyone but herself.
Featured above, INA Soho: Hakaan ballerina ruffle dress; Prada sheer, silk three-quarter length sleeve dress; black, leather Christian Louboutin pumps; vintage stone and metal chain necklace; Alberta Ferretti pastel, pink silk dress with linen trim; Sally Bolhower hand-designed necklace with silver beads; Balenciaga leather marbleized motorcycle tote.
To give credit where credit is due, Yves Saint Laurent first tailored the feminine tuxedo: he cut with more streamlined angles and the straightforward lines associated with menswear. Almost always seen with a masculine flair in the form of a brimmed hat and vest, one of our own smartly dressed women, Linda Pagan, the owner of The Hat Shop on Thompson Street, below wears Yves Saint Laurent as if it was hand tailored for her alongside this year's release of the new film "Yves Saint Laurent", documenting the life of the designer.
From above, all INA Soho, Linda wears: YSL black cotton dress with side arm ties & YSL leather platform mid-calf boots; Vintage YSL pencil skirt and navy suede YSL platform loafer with gold metal plates; silk, cream YSL dress with waist tucks, YSL burgundy patent leather platform sandal, and YSL olive leather Muse 2 purse; cropped, grey belted YSL trouser; black, cotton YSL apron dress & YSL black, patent Tribute pump; YSL khaki-colored tunic top and YSL straw purse with metal horn handle.
"How many men does it take to tie a bow tie?" we wondered, as we searched Thompson Street for one man with this coveted skill apparently lost to days of yore. One of the most appealing aspects of wearing a man's shirt is choosing a tie to match, and tying this tie in a variety of ways.
Squirrel wears, from top: Gianni Versace yellow silk shirt with Hermes bow tie (INA MEN); Lost & Found white tunic dress shirt with Gianni Versace tie (INA MEN); Jim Morrison button-down by Jim's Tailor Workshop (INA MEN); Junya Watanabe blue & white checkered dress shirt with Prada striped tie & vintage red & white checkered bow tie (INA MEN); Karl Lagerfeld fuschia silk shirt with Gianni Versace crustacean tie (INA MEN); Marc le Bihan plaid & floral dress shirt with Marni silk tie (INA MEN).
A great ship, the Jadrolinja, delayed its departure. From the deck of the ship, I looked over the railing for a last view of the shoreline, divided into two halves, a dark half and a light half: in one direction, tourism crept up the seaside hill; overflowing with lightbulbs, the hill dumped a pooling reflection of light into the black water. On the other side, the landscape of restaurants eventually lost footing in complete blackness. Inhabitants of the overnight ferry wandered among green plastic chairs. Curving roads led down the hill of the town, emptying onto the beach where straggling swimmers made their way out of the water dressed in one-piece cut-away bathing suits, strappy bikinis, and loose patterned swim trunks.
From top: Yves Saint Laurent, one piece navy bathing suit with white cut-outs (INA Nolita); Men's Ferragamo red & white swim trunk (INA Men); Tori Praver cut-away bikini bottom (with matching top in INA Nolita); Tara Matthews one-piece grey bathing suit with jeweled sides (INA Nolita); Mara Hoffman multi-colored bikini bottom (with matching top in INA Nolita); Men's Retromarine swim trunk (INA Men); Marie France Van Damme gold bikini bottom (INA Nolita); Marie France Van Damme one-piece gold bathing suit (INA Nolita); Marie France Van Damme strapless, gold bathing suit (INA Nolita).
Scarves - count the ways: tied in a single knot, as a bandana, as a turban, as shawl, as trim to a straw hat. Silk, cotton, and hand-woven scarves. Those with logo prints and emblematic patterns. Those with hand dyed fabrics. Loosely knitted scarves. Linen and durable canvas wraps, alongside sheer gauze and pashmina.
Which is your summer passport?
Featured from above, INA Soho: Chanel blue silk, circle-stamped scarf; Dolce and Gabbana chain-link and floral printed, silk scarf; Hemes golden yellow printed scarf with Chanel fluorescent orange sunglasses; Missoni cotton scarf encircling Eugenia Kim straw hat; Pucci cotton printed scarf.
Keep your ear to the ground for beginning of the season accessories. Black is never out of season, out of place. In summer, it is second only to exposed skin.
Summer boots, with trinkets to match, abound this week in our Noho location. With a certain amount of breathability and visibility of the foot, each of these below boots pair with cut-offs and loose floral cottons.
Chanel has a penchant for seasonal fabrics: terrycloth tennis bracelets and patent heels come with thin, attached socks meant to be pushed down.
Summer Victorian lace-up ankle boots are an open-toe rendition of modesty. Below, Daniele Michetti boots come unworn in original packaging.
(Another Victorian touch, Jay Strongwater's compact.)
A lasting thought of metal plates: Miu Miu motorcycle boots and an Isabel Marant woven metal belt are an effortless throw-on over denim and practically untouched.
From above, all found in INA Noho: Repossi black gold ear cuff, Christian Dior black and pearl studs, Chanel, patent pump with attached socks, Chanel terrycloth wristlet and ring, Prada beige leather button-up heeled boots, Daniele Michetti basket-weave red & black ankle boots; Jay Strongwater vintage-tinged compact, Miu Miu leather motorcycle boot, Isabel Marant metal linked belt.