It was America, who in 1954, championed Coco Chanel's comeback collection after the second world war. Drop waists, straight silk layers, and tweed suits were best absorbed into the celebrity set by Marilyn Monroe and Romy Schneider, and by Jackie Kennedy in presidential appearances. After France's critique of Chanel as old-fashioned and reminiscent of the 1920s, as opposed to Christian Dior's corseted New Look, Coco turned to America. America had always been the country who best understood her, always best understood the casual chic of sportswear, free and easy.

All merchandise INA Chelsea, from top: Celine nautical stripe long-sleeved top, Miu Miu sequined headband; Chanel pleated skirt and Marni platform shoe with jeweled heel; Parker ivory silk blouse with bell sleeves, Acne navy silk wide leg pants, Ralph Lauren Purple Label black pump with sheer sides and cap toe, Troy Skeeters tan brimmed hat; Chanel double C logo tank top, Chanel pink geometric earrings, Moschino black wide legged cropped pants, Isabel Marant black leather slide; Chanel navy tweed blazer and skirt, Equipment white silk sleeveless blouse, Escada gold chain-link bracelet, Saint Laurent white leather sneaker with stars.